Before we got to the hallowed ground of the Abbey, we passed by this interesting mural. I am not entirely sure, but the building might once have been Fearn old schoolhouse. I have no idea what the mural represents.
The Abbey was originally founded in 1221 in Edderton, which is a good few miles to the north. Due to dangers posed by warring clans, it was moved here in 1238. It was a daughter house of the Premonstratensian order in Whithorn. Premonstratensians are an order of Canons Regular whose origins lie in Premontre in North east France.
It is important to note that Canons Regular are not monks. Now, you will ask me what the difference is and I will say that I am not exactly sure.
Both are members of religious orders and many are priests. However, monks focus on prayer and contemplation, generally living in monasteries and doing things that they need to stay alive - like growing vegetables, making beer and honey and the like. Canons tend to work in the community doing public liturgy and preaching, albeit they might live in and around central churches, like Fearn Abbey.
The original Abbey has been altered and rebuilt over the centuries. Following the Reformation in the first part of the 16th Century, the site became the Church of Scotland parish church. However, before the Reformation, a boy, Patrick Hamilton was handed the Commendatorship of the Abbey. This means he received an income without actually having to do very much for it. He didn't even need to live in the Abbey. That didn't end too well as he was burned at the stake as a heretic when he was 26!
Whether burning the poor Patrick was a good thing or not, the church roof fell in on the congregation in 1742, killing 50 of them! A new church was built adjacent to the Abbey ruins, but by 1770, that too had fallen into disrepair. Part of the Abbey was then rebuilt and became the parish church in 1772. The building we see today largely dates from that restoration of 1772.The parish church remained in use until 2023.
Evidence of the rebuilding and alteration of the old fabric of the building is everywhere.
It is, and was, clearly a place of considerable importance and history, and if only these walls could talk!
There is one Commonwealth Gravestone on the churchyard and it commemorates Private P McL Ross, who died in 1921. An odd name and an odd time to have died, well after the end of the First World War. It turns out that Private Ross's parents might not have been married. His mother was a Ross and his father was Andrew McLeod, a shoemaker from Hill of Fearn. The McL, presumably relates to his father.
I cannot find a cause of death or even a first name for Private Ross. Having said that, he would appear to have been lucky to have survived the war. In May 1915, his regiment took part in the battle of Aubers Ridge. This seems to have been colossally mismanaged. Heavy British shelling appears to have had no effect on the German troops. When the 4th and 1st Seaforths went over the top, they did not even make it out of their own trenches, which soon became clogged with dead and wounded.
After our visit to the Abbey, it was back to the comfortable house for warmth, food, drink and games. Dinner of lasagne, Tuscan chicken, profiteroles and raspberry cheesecake was provided by Pam, Hugh, Sandra and Dave.
Something Private Ross probably deserved, but never got.
Another successful day.
Sunday 26th April2026
Another day, another walk. This time we were in Inver to walk along the coast to Portmahomack. Once we had gathered at the village hall we were ready to go. We would have gone a bit earlier were it not for Dave's backpack forcing a malfunction of Robin's car boot!]
Inver is a straight Anglicisation of the Gaelic Inbhir meaning the confluence or mouth of a river or stream. On some older maps and documents, the village is named as Inverlochslin, suggesting that Loch Slin once drained to here. Loch Slin, however, no longer exists, except as a place name and as a farm, all lying to the south of Inver.
Inver was once a thriving fishing village. It had 27 boats and 85 men and boys involved in fishing in 1878, which was over 20% of the population at the time. The village also has a remarkable war time history.
This stone remembers Company Sergeant Major Jock Kendrick Skinner VC DCM and Croix de Guerre, who was born in Inver. His story is quite astonishing.
He was born in Inver in 1881, but his family later moved to Pollockshields where he trained as an engineer. He later joined the Kings Own Scottish Borderers and was wounded 3 times in the Boer War. He served all over the world before the Great War. He was wounded again in 1914 in France, where he was awarded the DCM. When he recovered he fought in the Dardanelles, before returning to France again in 1916. Then in Belgium in 1917 his company was held up by machine gun fire. Despite being wounded in the head (his 5th wounding) he gathered 6 men and fought his way around the blockhouses where the enemy was holed up. He eventually took 60 prisoners, 3 machine guns and 2 mortars. For this he was awarded the Victoria Cross. 2 months before he was due to get his medal, he was wounded again at Langemark in Belgium. He was hospitalised to the UK, where he got married and then got his medal from the King. He was also awarded the Croix de Guerre. In March 1918, he was killed in action at Passchendaele, while trying to rescue a wounded medical orderly. He was so highly thought of, that his men carried his body 15 miles back to a place called Vlamertinghe in Belgium, where he was buried. All 6 of his pall bearers were holders of the Victoria Cross!
Is that not an amazing tale and, frankly, the photo of the stone doesn't even hint at it?
Oblivious to Jock Skinner's tale, we walked along the shore side of the village. It was pretty quiet, being a Sunday. However, Inver had been quieter in the Second World War. In late 1943, the villagers were told by Army Commanders that the village and surrounding farms were to be completely evacuated. Scant details of why this was necessary were given and only 4 weeks were allowed for this to happen!
Everything had to be removed - food, clothing, furniture, crops and animals! This included taking in and dealing with the potato and corn/hay harvests. There were 1600 cows and over 9500 sheep to be moved or sold. Most were sold at special marts in Dingwall, but due to short notice and the secrecy surrounding the reason for sale, prices were very low!
It turned out that anything that was left behind was not there when the villagers returned! There were not even pheasants, partridges or rabbits as the soldiers had shot them all. Compensation was paid to farmers at 1939 rates, which didn't cover costs. There was no prospect of a harvest when they did return as it was too late to sow crops and the tanks had compacted the ground and knocked down the fences. All the horses had been sold and had to be replaced with new tractors.
People returned to the village in May and June of 1944, to find their houses in some disarray and to discover that there was unexploded ordinance everywhere.
The irony of the situation was that this was all done to allow for D Day landing training. Inver was chosen because aerial photos suggested it best matched the Normandy beaches. However, nobody had consulted the locals, who could have told them that tidal action continually changed the nature and shape of the sands. When the first test barges were sent from Invergordon to the beaches, only one actually made it due to the treacherous conditions, and it ran aground. Even worse, when the first tank left the barge, it promptly disappeared into a water channel. The Army ultimately decided this was not going to work, so the tanks were transported to Inver by road and the area was used as a firing range. Landing practice took place elsewhere!

During my research for this bit of the blog, it was clear that there is a flourishing community spirit here and a lot of that revolves around the school and local children. They care about where they live and they want to be sure that those of us who are just passing by, care as well.