walkwithdinosaurs

Sunday, June 15, 2025

O MAY SOME POWER THE PEARSIE GIE US......(with apologies to somebody)

DAY1

Get away time again and this time, we got away to deepest Angus and Pearsie Lodge, north of Kirriemuir, and frankly, it seemed, in the middle of nowhere.

In fact, Pearsie Lodge is nowhere near the middle of nowhere. The middle of nowhere is actually defined geographically. It is the Oceanic Pole of Inaccessibility, otherwise known as Point Nemo. Nemo is Latin for nobody and it was so named by Croatian survey engineer, Hrvoje Lukatela, after Captain Nemo in 20000 Leagues under the Sea. It is the point on the planet furthest from any land and it lies in the South Pacific Ocean. It is so remote that sometimes the people nearest to it are astronauts on the International Space Station! It is also known as a spacecraft cemetery because hundreds of spacecraft are made to fall there when they re-enter the Earth's atmosphere.

The real thing to remember about Point Nemo is - don't fall overboard from your ship! If you don't get killed by a falling satellite, you'll never manage the 1670 mile swim to the nearest land! There was no need for us to dodge falling rockets or to swim for a few hundred miles to get to our first destination, which turned out to be Peel Farm for a spot of luncheon.

After we were suitably fed and watered, we sat in the sun, while the more active of us had a wee look around the various shops.

Pam came out of the shop with Hugh's credit rating still relatively intact.

Susan spent ages rummaging in her handbag for her credit card, which Robin had deliberately left at home. Meanwhile Dave's brains were turning into a pink ball of mush and it looked like mine were about to leak out of my nose.

What we didn't realise whilst we were there was the Peel Farm had been the home of the Durwards from as long ago as the 13th Century. One of the Durwards, Alan, owned a huge deer park hereabouts and he had built a great dyke to enclose the park and the remains of that can be seen in part nearby (but not by us). He lived at Peel of Lintrathen, which is near to where Peel Farm is now. Peels or Peles were stone towers or fortifications, more common in Border areas. The Durwards were at one time a powerfully connected family in Scotland, but they and their castles have long disappeared. This may partly be down to a massacre of Durwards that took place when the Ogilvy Lord Of Kilray massacred many of them in battle. The survivors tried to escape across the River Isla, but were washed away and drowned. The Laird of Kilray then besieged Peel Castle, walked across the frozen moat and put everyone inside to death except for one young boy who was sent to live in Arbroath Abbey! 

After that fun filled interlude, we were off to do some actual walking. It wasn't a very far drive to Reekie Linn waterfall. It wasn't a very far walk either, more of a gentle introduction to the trip. What it was, though, was a pretty spectacular walk. The path was good and obvious, which is always a plus.


It was a little steep at the sides, but happily, we didn't go over the edge.


Having said that, Jimmy's hoodie and shorts were a tad on the edge of middle aged elegance.


It was only a short walk, but the reward was a great view of the Reekie Linn waterfall. Reekie, because the spray looks like smoke or mist and Linn from the old Gaelic for a deep pool. The falls have two drops, one of 6 metres and a second of 18 metres. In spate they combine to make a 34 metre drop. The rocks at the bottom are soft and the plunge pool is said to be 30 metres deep. The plunge pool will eventually undermine the harder rock above and the falls will collapse to begin erosion again. In effect, the falls are migrating upstream, albeit at a geological speed.


Despite my entreaties for them to step back so that I might get a better photo, they resisted. Wisely, as there is nothing to stop you plunging to your doom if you go over the edge.


Back we went to the car park. Gingerly!


We enjoyed the sun by the river.


From here you get a nice view of the Bridge of Craigisla dating from the late 18th/early 19th Century. The tie bars would suggest it is beginning to show it's age.


By now we were able to get into our accommodation, Pearsie Lodge, so off we went on what seemed like a very long journey into the foot of Glen Prosen. It actually seemed longer than it was and we were only 10 miles from Kirriemuir!
Who could resist a place with a dining room like this?


Or views like this?


Or, an al fresco cocktail bar/tearoom like this?


The Tesco Delivery Van cometh.


It wasn't too long before we were making good use of the dining room.


All courtesy of a delicious meal provided by Jim and Jacque and Maureen.


I'm not sure of Jimmy was helping himself or portioning up the lasagne, before diving into the Spanish chicken and peppers.


He wasn't alone.


Susan was distraught that the custard for Maureen's crumble was disappearing fast!


After a geographical quiz, which cruelly exposed our lack of knowledge of most of the UK, it was time for bed.


DAY 2 

Our second day dawned bright and sunny, perfect for a visit to a castle with a walk around the extensive grounds and gardens. So, off to Glamis we went. It is a bit bigger than your average bungalow as you can see.


It also has a lot more history in the walls than most of suburbia.
We first toured the castle, wherein you cannot take photos, so you will have top believe me when I say it is a mixture of the sublime and the ridiculously wealthy.
The gardens are very extensive and well designed. I like a garden that shows off different aspects of a house and landscape. Somebody has taken a bit of time with the placement of tiny saplings that will grow into huge specimen trees and frame a view of the castle that the designers will never live to see. There's a certain confidence and arrogance involved in this sort of undertaking.



Single trees were planted with the aim of making a statement in the future by being given the space and the setting to thrive and make the best of their natural form.


There was a kitchen garden the size of a gated community, which it was, naturally.


It was enormous and must, once, have produced vast quantities of vegetables, fruit and flowers for the castle.


It is all more decorative than workmanlike in appearance, although it clearly takes a huge amount of work to maintain.


There were some splendid flowers on show.



There was a fountain, which was a bit bigger that the one we have at home.


Everybody loves a fountain.



This one was so big that the passengers on the high flying jet could well have been heading for a soaking!


Just to emphasise the neatness of it all, even the clematis on the walls was well trained.


Next up was the MacBeth walk. We had actually split into two groups - essentially those who had a cup of tea and those that went to walk about the kitchen gardens. So, we were not all together in the woods.
We only had two of the witches together at the appropriate wood carving.


Using her magical spells, the missing witch made herself appear.


There were lots of MacBeth woodcarvings here.
This should be MacDuff holding MacBeth's head aloft, but instead shows Hugh and Charlie fooling around.


Is this a dagger which I see before me?


Banquo, where's your trousers?


Out, out, brief candle.


The other group, just blew the candle out, which, I suppose, sums up MacBeth's view of life as being so brief and, in the comparison to the surrounding, vast darkness, completely inconsequential.


On that cheery note it was time, I think, for a bit of light relief in the Italian Garden. 


A bit formal and despite the sunlight it was lacking in colour. We had, of course, arrived after the really early stuff had faded and the later stuff had not yet bloomed. We did get to see what looked like some amazing work with hedge clippers!



These bushy cloisters provided some welcome shade and, possibly, the template for a 1970's album cover.


We may have been in two separate groups, but we did meet up to mill about on the path. Which, to be fair, is something we do a lot of on walks.


We compared notes. Our group got to see the wonders of nature.


The other group got to see the wonders of machinery. I can only tell you that this is a Riley, but beyond that I have no idea, but I know a man who does!


After our various wanderings, we walked back to the castle.



We met up briefly for lunch, before we split up again so that some of us could go for another walk, whilst the remainder went back to the Lodge to do some baking, cooking or just lazing about in the sun.


As I went with the walking group, that is what we will look at now.
We headed for Loch Shandra and started walking along the edge of a forestry plantation, unwittingly passing an 18th Century limekiln.


There were lots of limekilns and old farmsteads scattered along the bottom of the glen. This is not entirely surprising given that the Cateran Trail passes nearby. This 64 mile walking trail follows old cattle droving routes and also some routes used by the Caterans, who were infamous cattle raiders.


Loch Shandra quite suddenly appears in front of us and it is a short walk down to the side of the loch.


Loch Shandra is man made. The river, known as The Muckle Burn, has been dammed, but the purpose is a mystery, although there is an old, ruined threshing mill downstream of where we parked. This was water powered, so perhaps the dam was associated with that.
Nowadays, the loch is a popular trout fishing water.


It really is very picturesque, with the fisherman's shelter and views up Glen Isla. This tranquil scene does mask a landscape that once held a number of townships and farms that have long since been abandoned.


Here we have Sharon and Sandra after whom the loch is named.
Actually, that isn't true. It is thought that the name derives from the Gaelic seantruibh, meaning old farmtoun. 


Our walk now takes us uphill and away from the loch and down the other side of Muckle Burn.



The landscape is a bit more open and the sound of lambs is everywhere.


As we come down off the open hill, the land becomes more pastoral.


The sheep are being gathered, probably for shearing.


As we pass through East Mill Farm, you can see something among the trees. It turns out this is the local war memorial. It contains a list of 7 men who fell in the First World War. 2 of those named were Stewart and James Ogilvy - maybe descendants of the Ogilvies that massacred the Durwards. However, I do hope they were not brothers or otherwise related. They died within one month of each other in September/October 1915.


Just about back at the car park and we pass these cottages. They have the appearance of prefabs or the old chicken mesh and plaster houses built as temporary accommodation. All I can find out is that The Freuchies were built for Forestry workers. I am guessing that these are the one and the same place. Most of them seem now to be holiday cottages.


From the car park it is home for tea, cookies and scones. The cookies and scones were made by Sue who clearly didn't spend her afternoon lazing in the sun.
Once the delicious afternoon tea is over, some of us have to continue to get dinner ready and others don't. Then it is time for a cold glass of something sparkling in the sun. Here is our friendly sommelier doing the rounds.


Here are some of the discerning clientele.


Here are some of the divas.


Here are the sophisticates.


After drinks, dinner is served by the glamorous kitchen brigade.


Dave needed a little help with his greens.



Otherwise, it was more of a dig in and help yourself!


Pam's puddings were a great hit.


Charlie certainly seemed pleased to see them.



More quizzes and bed followed.


DAY 3

Another 2 day walk beckoned us on another sunny day.
Our first walk was a wide ranging and interesting walk around Kirriemuir, home of gingerbread, JM Barrie and Bon Scott. There has to be a song or a story there somewhere! Indeed, if you know all the AC/DC song titles, you will spot a few here. To make it easier for all you easy listening people, I've made them bold.

Here we are parking our Wheels at the car park. Most of us had no clue where we were going, it was almost a Back Seat Confidential situation.


It Ain't no Fun (Waiting 'round to be a Millionaire) so we set off across the grass, despite the cries of Baby Please don't Go.


These cries were from Jimmy who just had to be Breaking all the Rules and playing the Bad Boy Boogie.


We passed by the Cricket pavilion, which also houses the Camera Obscura. These were gifted to the town by JM Barrie in 1930. The Camera Obscura is one of only three in Scotland. The views of the surrounding countryside are said to be extensive, but you can't see What's Next to the Moon.


It wasn't long before we were Beating Around the Bush.


We soon saw some extensive views across the countryside without the Camera Obscura.

This looked too lush to No Man's Land.


This was a Whole Lotta Rosie tatties. 
(I was particularly proud of getting that one in).


As you might expect, there are lots of song titles with the word rock in them.

Rock and Roll ain't Noise Pollution, Rocker, Rocking all the Way, Rockin' in the Parlour.....I could go on, but I'll tell the story of the stone instead, otherwise it would be a Touch too Much.

This is a prehistoric standing stone, which may have formed part of a circle of stones. It also bears a legend that two robbers are buried underneath it, having stopped there to count out their ill gotten gains, or they may have stopped for a little Whisky on the Rocks, but the truth of the matter is lost Through the Mists of Time.


Somewhat unexpectedly, at least for me, we arrived at a huge cliff face. To say I was Thunderstruck would be an understatement.
The cliff is actually the remains of sediment laid down 400 million years ago when Kirriemuir was part of the ancient continent called Euramerica. The rock here was owned by the Lyell family and the site has been quarried over a long time. Sir Charles Lyell was a friend of Charles Darwin and his confirmation of the geological theories of James Hutton laid the foundation of modern geology. Essentially what he showed was that the geological past could be explained by reference to things we can see around us today - erosion, the odd Landslide, earthquakes and volcanoes and the like. It wasn't about Noah's flood at all. It was enough to Shake your Foundations and it certainly gave Darwin some Brain Shake.


As a reminder that we are all living on Borrowed Time, we ended up in the cemetery! Specifically we were there to see JM Barrie's grave. Everybody knows Barrie from his Peter Pan novels and plays, of which there were actually quite a few. He wrote many novels and plays throughout his career from the 1880s to the 1930s. You could say his fame Snowballed. He always remained close to Kirriemuir, despite being a close friend of the great and the good in London (Sin City) society.
He did have some extraordinary things going on in his life.
He knew people like Robert Louis Stevenson, with whom he corresponded for years, but never actually met. HG Wells was a friend and George Bernard Shaw was a neighbour. He founded an amateur cricket club and players included Rudyard Kipling, Arthur Conan Doyle, A A Milne, P G Wodehouse and Jerome K Jerome. Presumably they would Play Ball with a Stiff Upper Lip. The club was called the Allahakbarries, which he thought made up as a play on Allah Akbar meaning God help us rather than the actual meaning of God is Great.
His marriage to Mary Ansell was allegedly never consummated - they certainly had no children. They were divorced when she had an affair, but his friends prevailed on the press  not to publicise the fact and only three papers mentioned it. He continued to support Mary even when she married the object of her illicit affections. He gave her a cheque at a private dinner held on the date of their wedding anniversary, but presumably he did not ask her What do you do for Money Honey?
This is his headstone, which also commemorates other family members (including more of those pesky Ogilvies).


The graveyard was very neat and very interesting in only that peculiar way that graveyards can be. Although you do wonder for how many Hell Ain't a Bad Place to Be.

In a strange sort of back to front way, our next stop was JM Barrie's birthplace. Not the House of Jazz, but 9 Brechin Road! It was closed, but that was fine.


We had a wee look round the back. Barrie was the son of a weaver and he lived here with seven brothers and sisters. The weaving room was downstairs.


The wash house was thought to be his first childhood theatre and the building itself might have inspired the Wendy House in Peter Pan.


Everybody but Maureen and I wandered off, despite us singing Baby Please Don't Go! I don't think it was my Wild Reputation that kept her their, but more the fact that I had found what you might call the Go Zone! 
This was the pretty little jungle garden next door.


It was also where Tick Tock, the crocodile lived! He looks like a bit of a Ballbreaker with a Mean Streak.


Just as Maureen and I were leaving, something flitted by and caught the corner of our eyes. Could it have been? Yes, I think it really was Tinker Bell! It just shows that If You Dare to Believe, then Anything Goes!


After that little Miss Adventure we moved down to a more industrial part of town by the Gairie Burn. This was where the last working Jute weaving factory in Scotland was. It only transferred from Jute to Polypropylene in 2005. The original factory dates from 1869, although it was rebuilt in 1891 after a fire. Wilkies, who operate the site also took over the adjacent Gairie Jute works, which were owned by, guess who, the Ogilvies!


There were some nice wee details on the old factory roof.


It was all very pleasant walking in the park near the burn in the sunshine.


The route took us by the canalised Gairie Burn and into what looked like the Highway to Hell.


Next we could be in the lair of the Night Prowler.


In fact, this might well be him, or perhaps just the work of a Problem Child.


Talking of problem children, here is Bon Scott's statue. The family had moved to Australia from Kirriemuir when he was 6. He had a variety of jobs, including as a trainee weighing machine mechanic long before he got to Living the Rock and Roll Dream.
He spent 9 months in juvenile jail for a number of offences, including stealing petrol, giving a false name and address to police, escaping from custody and having unlawful carnal knowledge! All this Breaking the Rules might have inspired some more songs like, Kissin' Dynamite, Dirty Deeds Done Dirt Cheap, Evil Walks and Playing with Girls.
He was actually in a pipe band, but was rejected by the Australian Army as socially maladjusted. He joined AC/DC in 1974 as their lead singer. The band became phenomenally successful around the world. Bon Scott died from acute alcohol poisoning, allegedly in the back of a friend's Renault 5 in 1980 at the age of 33.  One of the songs on the AC/DC album released after his death was called Have a Drink On Me.


That seems like a good place to say Goodbye and Good Riddance to Bad Luck and the AC/DC song titles!

The next stage of the walk involved a lot of steps. Some of us, including me, chickened out of that and waited for the rest of them to come out of the trees pretending it had all been easy peasy!


We left the park and started uphill, passing by St Mary's Episcopal Church, which is notable for being the only complete church designed by Sir J Ninian Comper. He was a Scottish architect working in London. He designed, for example, the windows in Westminster Abbey and is buried close by to them.
The church is also the place where JM Barrie's funeral was held. As a baronet, Barrie could have had his funeral and burial at Westminster Abbey but preferred to come back to Kirriemuir.


I've heard of dogs wanting to go for walkies, but this was ridiculous!


From the church it was uphill back to the cars after a really interesting walk around a town that is more interesting than we might have believed.


From Kirrie, we went back to the lodge for a spot of luncheon, then some of us went on what must be one of the prettiest walks we've done.
This was along the river South Esk. To get walking, we passed by these rather ornate gates. These gates date from the 17th Century and are thought to be of Italian workmanship. They are called Cortachy Castle Golden Gates, but they have been modified and moved and then set between the stone pillars, so they probably aren't quite as magnificent as they once were.


This is Grey Lodge and it is the north entrance to Cortachy Castle which is owned by - yes - the Ogilvies, the Earls of Airlie. Grey Lodge was built in 1820.


Just next to the Grey Lodge is  Cortachy Bridge, built in 1759. This, and we, cross the River South Esk.


From the bridge you get a hint of what makes this such a popular walk, especially at this time of year - some spectacular azalea and rhododendron planting.
These were planted in the 1820's as part of the wider woodland, although they have been altered over time. The walk and some of the specimen trees date from 1850, when it was thought that Queen Victoria would visit, but she didn't show up for whatever reason.


It seems a bit superfluous to describe every flower, so I've just included a number of photos. It would have to be said, that you could have spent hours here taking photos.











Once we dragged ourselves away from the flowers, we followed the river along a very pleasant, sun-dappled path.


We crossed over to the other side.


We passed the enemy gun emplacement exposed by erosion.


The river really was very pretty.


Soon enough we were getting back to the start of the walk and we could see the floral extravaganza from the other side.



We rushed back to the lodge, because we has smelled the scones and cookies that Sue was making!


Robin wasted no time in getting stuck in.


For some odd reason, I have no photos of al fresco cocktails or our great curry dinner, expertly prepared by Susan and Robin. Nor do I have photos of our fond farewells to Jim and Jacque who had to leave due to a wedding - not theirs, I hasten to add.
I do have a photo of the resident AC/DC tribute band, Nervous Shakedown. They don't play small venues, they only do Big Balls. Maureen the Roadie, who goes by the name of Dirty Eyes is lurking in the background.



DAY 4 (not an AC/DC song title)

Our last day in the Glens, and to carry on the edgy theme we were off to the bluebell wood. That turned out to be a bit of a  trial in that we became separated on a road to somewhere we didn't know how to get to. By expert tracking and sat nav, we got there on the end. 
What was at our parking place was a bit weird and not really what you would expect at a bluebell wood. It looked as if someone had sacrificed the cast of the 100 acre wood!




Shaken, but undaunted, we carried on to find the path. It was in there somewhere.


There it is.


We soon got into our stride and could look back at the woods, which were pretty good. While it is locally called Bluebell Wood, it is really called Darroch Wood. Darach is, of course, the Gaelic for Oak, which is the main species here. 


There were some big animals to be found here as well - horses, and inquisitive ones at that!


Dave, the Horse Whisperer.


Sharon, the Hoarse Whisperer?


Opposite the horses were the remains of a house. There is considerable archaeological evidence of townships and habitation all around this area.


We came to a fork in the track and could not agree on the way to go. By now, time was running against us as we had lunch booked at Pitlochry. Eventually, we decided to retrace our steps and get to the cars, so that we might make lunch on time.


That was a bit of a shame, as we would have been able to visit the site of Muirtown of Ardblair. This was a weaving village of over 20 houses more than a hundred years ago. Each family would have had a loom and they would have grown their own flax. The population of the village fell dramatically after the First World War and eventually the cottages fell into disrepair and the village was abandoned. There is now no trace of the cottages.
Back we went.


What about the bluebells, I hear you shout?
Well, they were a bit past their best,  but there was plenty evidence of how spectacular they would have been at their height. The only problem is that my phone did not capture that glory very well!


This one is a bit better. Perhaps we will need to come back one day.


Once back at the cars we headed off to Pitlochry Festival Theatre for a very good lunch.


That was the end of another great away trip. Great food, company, entertainment and walks. Thanks are due to Susan and Robin for their organisation and to everyone else for being there and adding to the sum of human happiness.
We must do it again sometime. Just try and Hold me Back!